Chanel Has Executed A Playbook To Learn From. What Are The Grey Areas?

1. You have, of course, read about Chanel’s brilliant strategy behind presenting the new collection by Matthieu Blazy: well-timed launch, calibrated pre-launch celebrity teasing, controlled press exposure.

2. As a result, in the first days of the launch, queues formed outside boutiques. Social media suggests there were sales too.

3. But what stands behind this hype? Has the brand mapped the full interaction journey?

4. The psychological mechanism of processing new works in an interesting way.

5. For those familiar with the brand, the first reaction to a new direction is often negative. Familiar codes are disrupted, clients lose the sense of the brand being “theirs.” The brain prefers predictability, so resistance is natural. At the same time, it adapts and is drawn to novelty. What matters is whether the brand’s DNA remains legible and whether the new direction converts into demand, usually within 1–3 seasons.

6. To avoid losing existing clients—particularly important for Chanel base of repeat buyers of £6–10k jackets—visual communication of new meanings is crucial, partially anchored in recognisable forms and codes. Add performance tracking and slight adjustments of the offering.

7. For those unfamiliar with the brand, it works differently. No benchmark, so no resistance. The first impression becomes the positioning. The decision-making process is faster—based on visual appeal, perceived value, relevance, and recognisability, rather than history or codes.

8. The hype, whether staged or not, has largely driven newcomers to purchase. Fear + scarcity (FOMO) accelerate the decision, while social signals remove doubt. Not “I want”, but “I need to get it NOW.”

9. After purchase, the classic dopamine scenario follows: first the peak—relief, “I made the right decision.” Then the emotion fades and rationality kicks in.

10. This point is critical, especially with many new clients. Hype accelerates the decision but shifts the risk to the post-purchase stage.

11. It results in either: • reinforcement—the item fits the wardrobe and lifestyle → loyalty • neutralisation—fine, but nothing special → superficial client • disappointment—bought due to hype, followed by irritation → loss of trust

12. What the brand can influence: • deliver a high-quality product • provide outstanding after-care service

13. This is where the grey areas lie.

14. The visual communication of the new pieces already failed to balance with recognisable codes (though couture attempted to address this). I wrote about how heritage doesn’t fully hold its shape (quality) in a separate example.

15. Soon we will get more opinions. They are hard to predict—a FOMO-driven one-time client can quickly shift from favour to frustration, especially in social media.

16. Attention can easily backfire if it is superficial, not supported by product, and/or doesn’t translate into loyalty.