2Jour Notes

1. The vast majority of looks were paired with bags. This is a trick to fuel desirability (the word feels tacky because of overexposure, but I haven’t found a better synonym yet) — a runway appearance elevates a bag to top-tier status (and price, hah). Some time ago, I mentioned this in relation to Saint Laurent — while bags might take a top spot in terms of frequency of mention by Kering top management during earnings calls, for example, at SL recent shows not a single model walked the runway carrying a bag. I wrote here about why that’s a problem here.

2. I don’t like the Chanel website — it could definitely be better, both technically and in terms of storytelling. However, among luxury brands, it [Chanel website] does stand out for being practical in how it presents collections. For example, on the evening after the show, the website already has photos of all the looks,…

Psychologically, when a person tries to take up more space, it’s often an attempt to assume a position of power and assert dominance. There’s even a term for it — manspreading: when a man (as it’s usually a man) sits with legs wide apart and takes up too much space on public transport.

The current Saint Laurent collection, according to SL creative director Anthony Vaccarello in Vogue Runway, “is about control, and power, in a way.” He deliberately stepped away from the overused “a tuxedo for a woman which was worn naked underneath” (overused, but still no-lose combination I must say). Instead, he offered his vision of something “more strict” — oversized tailoring styles with shirts and ties, very reminiscent of 1980s men’s fashion.

I often browse the brand’s official website — Saint Laurent remains one of my personal favorites in RTW. In the lookbook available there, the backstage photos…

Loewe has issued a monograph reflecting Jonathan Anderson’s decade at the Spanish fashion house.

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Heritage is part of luxury positioning — it means you’re not just buying, say, a dress, but also gaining an emotional connection to the brand and its story. Beyond the commercial aspect, I like this news as a sign that they parted ways on a warm note. In the cold, commercial world, that’s more a rarity than the norm.