1. I came across yet another video from an “old” Chanel client commenting on the brand’s new creative direction. She was trying on multiple pieces in the boutique and sharing her thoughts along the way.
   

2. I lost focus the moment she tried on this trench. “It seems too small,” I thought. “Maybe the sizing was developed for more delicate proportions, which is why the belt ended up so short.”

   

   I couldn’t finish watching the video and went to check the trench on the official website.
   

3. It turns out this is intentional. The belt is indeed that short — regardless of body type.
   

   

   

   

   

When I come across another celebrity red carpet moment, I rarely think purely in terms of like/dislike within the context of fashion choice. I think about the possible idea behind the look, brand relations, the stylist and their objectives. What celebrities wear on the red carpet is, in the vast majority of cases, not just about whether it suits them or not, but also about a range of other factors.

That said, I always pay attention to:

• Neatness

• Proportions — which can almost always be adjusted with accessories to create a better balance

• Fit — where choosing the correct size is critical

These are the elements that can be controlled to achieve a more visually flattering result.

How can you understand how a piece from Miu Miu womenswear will fit a woman if it’s presented on a male model in the official online store?

I could write volumes about how Prada Group websites — both Miu Miu and Prada, which are built on the same template — complicate rather than simplify choice through multiple factors, including styling. And now — presenting womenswear on a male model.

This might work on the runway as an experiment, or in editorials — but not in an online store.

***

More broadly, I’ve already written that as male celebrities appear more frequently in CHANEL womenswear in the coverage, to me it signals that garment cuts are moving toward standardization, simplification, and, eventually, expense cut — something that might be acceptable at a mass-market price point, but is not acceptable in luxury.

Recently, while indulging my passion for stationery—particularly notebooks and pens—and exploring what luxury brands offer in this category, I came across an interesting expansion of the product range at Cartier.

In addition to notebooks and agendas (which are well-designed and thoughtfully curated), I noticed that the brand offers an impressive collection of pens. Many of the designs echo the signature details of Cartier’s main lines, especially the Santos watch. The most expensive pen costs £132,000 — a limited edition of 8 individually numbered pieces, lavishly adorned with 475 diamonds.

But what really caught my attention was something else. Cartier also offers cartridges, refills, and ink bottles to complement the purchase and make it easier for the customer to maintain their pen. I immediately thought how perfect it would be if they had a rich red ink—just like their signature box color—and, sure enough, they do. Along with classic blue and…

In anticipation of the upcoming issue of HTSI by Financial Times with guest editor Phoebe Philo (I have a weakness for this print edition), here is an interesting observation.

Recently, while navigating the streets of London, I noticed red trash bags. The thing is, trash bags of specific colors in London are usually designated for certain types of waste. Red bags are most often used for commercial waste (from shops, cafés, offices). In certain areas (like Westminster), this color may also be used for special or mixed household waste that cannot be recycled.

Why do I think Phoebe might have drawn inspiration while passing by? x

Chloe Sevigny by Alasdair McLellah for Self Service Magazine

An unrelated observation — while butter yellow has become the trendiest shade of the season, Phoebe Philo’s cloud-like trench with exquisitely soft leather trim in that very hue appeared in her very first drop, well before the widespread craze. Coincidence?

Another unrelated observation — for a brand at…

1. The vast majority of looks were paired with bags. This is a trick to fuel desirability (the word feels tacky because of overexposure, but I haven’t found a better synonym yet) — a runway appearance elevates a bag to top-tier status (and price, hah). Some time ago, I mentioned this in relation to Saint Laurent — while bags might take a top spot in terms of frequency of mention by Kering top management during earnings calls, for example, at SL recent shows not a single model walked the runway carrying a bag. I wrote here about why that’s a problem here.

2. I don’t like the Chanel website — it could definitely be better, both technically and in terms of storytelling. However, among luxury brands, it [Chanel website] does stand out for being practical in how it presents collections. For example, on the evening after the show, the website already has photos of all the looks,…

• The concept of what luxury is hasn’t exactly acquired a new meaning, but it’s definitely gaining new layers. Brands are now facing a complex positioning challenge, and when I watch at yet another financial report or investors’ meeting, I realize that the industry still struggles to shift from the notion of “desirability” toward broader definitions. I see that as a problem.

• Fashion was invented to signal status; bluntly speaking, the wealthy created it to distinguish themselves from the poor. The latter, in turn, spent centuries trying to imitate it to gain access to a world that remained closed to them. That status is something many people want to broadcast. However, with the rise of social media—where the image often doesn’t match reality—the true markers of status are no longer clothes and bags but rather real estate, luxury cars, travel, and even silence. Naturally, this affects fashion sales. I…

The other day, Mytheresa announced a “full” partnership with Prada Group, which means that the brand’s products will now be available on the retailer’s platform with delivery across its entire coverage area (previously, it was limited to select regions).

To mark the occasion, I went to check out Mytheresa website, and while looking at a poorly steamed satin silk blouse on a model (creases may also be a designer idea, and it bursts my eyes x), I remembered an interesting story.

Once, I ordered a Zimmermann dress from Net-a-Porter. Long story short, I didn’t have the opportunity to return it because it had been shipped from one country to another, and I wasn’t in a position to inspect it at the time.

When I took it out of the package, I was both confused and honestly a little scared. The issue was that along the seams of this roughly $3,000 dress were clear lines drawn…

I have a lot to say about Saint Laurent. It’s one of my favorite brands when it comes to RTW, and I’ve been following it since the Stefano Pilati era.

Speaking of him, I recently re-read an old interview where he expressed frustration over management insisting that bags be shown on the runway. Interestingly, even though he disliked the idea of showcasing bags on the runway, they were still there. Commercially, it makes sense. Featuring a bag on the runway significantly boosts interest in it.

What’s the brand’s problem today? If we set aside the phrase “sequential deceleration” from Kering Q1 2025 presentation (what does it even mean?), SL is clearly in sales decline trend—while holding a significant potential.

• Bags exist separately from fashion

Their design carries a clearly aspirational appeal but doesn’t continue the story seen on the runway. That’s why you don’t see them there anymore—check the recent shows. If I…