2Jour Notes

I have a lot to say about Saint Laurent. It’s one of my favorite brands when it comes to RTW, and I’ve been following it since the Stefano Pilati era.

Speaking of him, I recently re-read an old interview where he expressed frustration over management insisting that bags be shown on the runway. Interestingly, even though he disliked the idea of showcasing bags on the runway, they were still there. Commercially, it makes sense. Featuring a bag on the runway significantly boosts interest in it.

What’s the brand’s problem today? If we set aside the phrase “sequential deceleration” from Kering Q1 2025 presentation (what does it even mean?), SL is clearly in sales decline trend—while holding a significant potential.

• Bags exist separately from fashion

Their design carries a clearly aspirational appeal but doesn’t continue the story seen on the runway. That’s why you don’t see them there anymore—check the recent shows. If I…

I spotted yet another guest in a Saint Laurent suit in the society pages and realized something interesting. This suit works well for public figures and editorials thanks to its clear statement and memorable visual appeal.

But it’s not flexible at all. For a client outside the world of society columns—where many guests wear brand-loaned looks—or beyond the pages of glossy magazines, there’s no option to adapt it to themselves. It’s either that exact styling or the concept is lost. The brand didn’t provide that flexibility on the runway, in merchandising, or through wholesalers.

In commercial terms, the target audience for a piece like this (core piece in the collection) is extremely limited. It appeals either to those who already love this style or to those the brand has managed to influence. Influencing a solvent audience (retail price is around £2,465 for jacket and £1,180 for pants) confident in their own taste?…

Psychologically, when a person tries to take up more space, it’s often an attempt to assume a position of power and assert dominance. There’s even a term for it — manspreading: when a man (as it’s usually a man) sits with legs wide apart and takes up too much space on public transport.

The current Saint Laurent collection, according to SL creative director Anthony Vaccarello in Vogue Runway, “is about control, and power, in a way.” He deliberately stepped away from the overused “a tuxedo for a woman which was worn naked underneath” (overused, but still no-lose combination I must say). Instead, he offered his vision of something “more strict” — oversized tailoring styles with shirts and ties, very reminiscent of 1980s men’s fashion.

I often browse the brand’s official website — Saint Laurent remains one of my personal favorites in RTW. In the lookbook available there, the backstage photos…