Saint Laurent has a problem
I have a lot to say about Saint Laurent. It’s one of my favorite brands when it comes to RTW, and I’ve been following it since the Stefano Pilati era.
Speaking of him, I recently re-read an old interview where he expressed frustration over management insisting that bags be shown on the runway. Interestingly, even though he disliked the idea of showcasing bags on the runway, they were still there. Commercially, it makes sense. Featuring a bag on the runway significantly boosts interest in it.
What’s the brand’s problem today? If we set aside the phrase “sequential deceleration” from Kering Q1 2025 presentation (what does it even mean?), SL is clearly in sales decline trend—while holding a significant potential.
• Bags exist separately from fashion
Their design carries a clearly aspirational appeal but doesn’t continue the story seen on the runway. That’s why you don’t see them there anymore—check the recent shows. If I may compare, the leather goods on Saint Laurent shelves remind me of Michael Kors bags in terms of appeal.
• Anthony Vaccarello’s collections are lazy
I still like them, but they’re easy to break down into two parts with key look. In the latest collection, it was the bold, oversized-shoulder minis and balloon-hem dresses. The one before that was all about a masculine theme and boho.
Another detail: runway pieces often never make it to the stores—or if they do, they’re heavily modified. The key word here is “heavily.”
For instance, the dresses that made up half of the last show, based on my preliminary information, will only be available for custom order with prices starting at €20,000. The prominent shoulders will be reduced by 5–7cm on each side—which makes sense, since wearability matters. But considering the runway is the first message about what’s coming to stores, such tactics may alienate potential customers.
• Pricing
The presentation mentioned updated bag models in various price segments—but I noticed a subtext that wasn’t explicitly stated: prices for certain models have actually been lowered. The brand’s pricing strategy leaves me puzzled, especially when it comes to RTW. I don’t like to use the word “expensive,” but when I look at their pricing, it feels like either they’re not really interested in selling clothes at all, or those setting the prices live in an alternate reality.
Bags may be a priority, but focus on this one category, especially heavily reliant on aspirational appeal, breaks sustainable development.
• Positioning
I’ve written a lot about this recently, and I see it as another major issue. The brand is flirting with radically different customer archetypes—the lover and the ruler. In catering to both, it creates two completely different brand perceptions. As a result, a potential client may struggle to understand what they’re even supposed to find in the boutique.
I consider these problems to be tied more to management than to design.
Saint Laurent digital lookbook: here
SL price analysis on jumpsuit example: here
Top best and worst fitting rooms including SL in ranking (I’ve been to so many because of 2Jour-Stylist.com lookbooks project): here
SL archetype problem: here
Which category really matters in fashion (including SL tendency over past 10 years): here