Yesterday, I was passing by Gucci. I saw how fast the burgundy set sold out in the EIP preview at Net-a-Porter, and when I touched it on the mannequin, I felt a proper cotton top and great woolen pants (this set seems to be proclaimed as a collection star, so mannequins at Gucci locations all around London are dressed in the very same shirt and trousers). I then stopped near another window with a grass-green set. It looked good. I was skeptical about the collection, but after it started appearing online and I had a second glimpse after the runway presentation, it felt good.
I was skeptical about Sabato De Sarno as well. Mostly because of the positioning—it felt wrong when he had a long vanity fair walk after the shows, it felt wrong to see dedicated films about him. It felt wrong because there was no tangible result of his work. I don’t think such positioning was solely his fault—if we recall, Kering management also actively contributed to making him a star in the spotlight.
After all, the current collection feels good (although I haven’t had the chance to try it on or update Gucci’s lookbook at 2Jour-Stylist.com). Maybe the RTW is a little bit raw—I’m cautious with accessories (belts, fashion jewelry), but without them, it felt like something was missing. Still, the latest ballet pumps are different and worthy of attention, and the latest bag release might further evolve into a staple piece.
He just didn’t have time. When the initial rush of unexpected fame settled down and materialized into something beyond empty statements—both from the group and the designer himself—Sabato De Sarno was shown the door.
I don’t like Demna-era Balenciaga. Maybe because I grew up in an environment where that style was extremely ordinary. But I hope he is given time to shape his vision.
Recently, I came across his words about how Gucci brand vision will not undergo drastic changes. That was right after the stock price crashed following the announcement of his appointment. I tried to find those words again—but they are nowhere to be found. Maybe I dreamt it, or maybe they disappeared along with Demna’s now-empty Instagram profile.
And it’s good that they disappeared. I believe that if Kering continues to waver, trying to course-correct in the short term, then its development strategy will remain nothing more than empty statements on paper.
But is there even a strategy?
Most probably, there won’t be a special report on Kering based on its 2024 FY results presentation. Writing about LVMH took me a week, and writing about Hermès took me two weeks (who would have thought that a report on Hermès would be so much broader? But this is what happens when there’s a 1-hour+ Q&A session—you get enough food for thought).
