2Jour Notes

1. The vast majority of looks were paired with bags. This is a trick to fuel desirability (the word feels tacky because of overexposure, but I haven’t found a better synonym yet) — a runway appearance elevates a bag to top-tier status (and price, hah). Some time ago, I mentioned this in relation to Saint Laurent — while bags might take a top spot in terms of frequency of mention by Kering top management during earnings calls, for example, at SL recent shows not a single model walked the runway carrying a bag. I wrote here about why that’s a problem here.

2. I don’t like the Chanel website — it could definitely be better, both technically and in terms of storytelling. However, among luxury brands, it [Chanel website] does stand out for being practical in how it presents collections. For example, on the evening after the show, the website already has photos of all the looks,…

• The concept of what luxury is hasn’t exactly acquired a new meaning, but it’s definitely gaining new layers. Brands are now facing a complex positioning challenge, and when I watch at yet another financial report or investors’ meeting, I realize that the industry still struggles to shift from the notion of “desirability” toward broader definitions. I see that as a problem.

• Fashion was invented to signal status; bluntly speaking, the wealthy created it to distinguish themselves from the poor. The latter, in turn, spent centuries trying to imitate it to gain access to a world that remained closed to them. That status is something many people want to broadcast. However, with the rise of social media—where the image often doesn’t match reality—the true markers of status are no longer clothes and bags but rather real estate, luxury cars, travel, and even silence. Naturally, this affects fashion sales. I…

The other day, Mytheresa announced a “full” partnership with Prada Group, which means that the brand’s products will now be available on the retailer’s platform with delivery across its entire coverage area (previously, it was limited to select regions).

To mark the occasion, I went to check out Mytheresa website, and while looking at a poorly steamed satin silk blouse on a model (creases may also be a designer idea, and it bursts my eyes x), I remembered an interesting story.

Once, I ordered a Zimmermann dress from Net-a-Porter. Long story short, I didn’t have the opportunity to return it because it had been shipped from one country to another, and I wasn’t in a position to inspect it at the time.

When I took it out of the package, I was both confused and honestly a little scared. The issue was that along the seams of this roughly $3,000 dress were clear lines drawn…

I have a lot to say about Saint Laurent. It’s one of my favorite brands when it comes to RTW, and I’ve been following it since the Stefano Pilati era.

Speaking of him, I recently re-read an old interview where he expressed frustration over management insisting that bags be shown on the runway. Interestingly, even though he disliked the idea of showcasing bags on the runway, they were still there. Commercially, it makes sense. Featuring a bag on the runway significantly boosts interest in it.

What’s the brand’s problem today? If we set aside the phrase “sequential deceleration” from Kering Q1 2025 presentation (what does it even mean?), SL is clearly in sales decline trend—while holding a significant potential.

• Bags exist separately from fashion

Their design carries a clearly aspirational appeal but doesn’t continue the story seen on the runway. That’s why you don’t see them there anymore—check the recent shows. If I…